John & I visit lighthouses. I always say that he likes the maritime history and mechanics of a lighthouse but I just like where they’re located. That’s not entirely truthful but the gist is. We have pledged to stay in a lighthouse every year for our anniversary and have thrown in a few extra for good measure. We’ve visited 53 lighthouses and have stayed in nine so far.
Our most recent lighthouse accommodation is the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel in the Rhinns of Galloway, Scotland. It is located at the very top, directly south of the Isle of Arran and about 25 miles due east of North Ireland. This historic landmark was erected in 1816 to safeguard shipping coming to and fro the Firth of Clyde and Loch Ryan. Interestingly the lighthouse (along with several others in Scotland) was designed by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of famed poet & author Robert Louis Stevenson.
The Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel is an award winning small hotel that bundles a five course dinner and full breakfast with supurb service in a remote location. To get here we took a two hour train ride from Glasgow Central to Stranraer. Stranraer is the port of the Stena HSS which purportedly offers “the world’s smoothest, largest fast ferry” service to Belfast taking all of 105 minutes. Not destined for Ireland this time around we walked into town and located a taxi to take us the 13 miles to Corsewall. It is speculated that Stranraer might be the site of an early Roman settlement, several ruin sites from various periods are located in Galloway. At present it’s a bustling small port town of about 10,000.
We took up residence in the Ballantrae Suite (so called because of the view of the burgh of Ballantrae across the mouth of Loch Ryan) for our two night stay. I was a bit disappointed with the location of our room. It’s in a separate new building 200 yards from the lighthouse. Despite being banished to the nether-lands I can’t complain about the comfortable set up. I’m not certain where I went wrong when booking but suspect it was the room available with a king sized bed and private bath. We’ve actually got two bedrooms plus a sofa bed and a kitchen, handy in case we make friends I suppose. If we return I’d opt for the Lighthouse Suite which also is in a separate building but part of the historic structures and is faced with large windows looking out to the west.
In addition to our ocean view we also have giant rabbits the size of large cats streaking by and Highland Cattle. We were told that the cattle enjoy being photographed but dislike being petted. All I’ve got from them is the bored apathy of a camera shy teenager while they remain well out of petting reach. I’m content with our fauna selection but can’t help but reminisce about the whales and kangaroos in residence at previous lighthouses.
Our visit coincides with ominous forecasts for the most serious storm of the year. Expected several gales and 80 mile hour winds prompted evacuations along the coast of southwest England and Wales. It seems as if when there’s going to be a significant weather event we’re always right on the cusp. Dare I mention Japan’s Super-typhoon Man-Yi last July? We received several concerned mutterings from people in Glasgow when we mentioned that we were headed for the coast but once here received only “Storm? Bah!” from our Gallovidian taxi driver. I figure that if the weather is truly going to be frightful what better place to ride it out than a spectacular ring side seat tucked into a warm room sipping Scotch Whisky. This lighthouse has been here for 200 years and will stand for many more. Regrettably the force of the storm hit at 5am well past and before my Whisky sipping hour. The building shook as high winds and rain pounded but by the time we arose at 8:30 blue skies were peaking out. The main thrust of the storm hit well to the south of us allowing us to spend the next day tromping over hill and dale.
There is essentially nothing to do here. One can sit and read and stare out to sea. That’s called relaxation and I’m all for it but if there’s exploring to do I’m first in line. Our exploring options were severely curtailed by our lack of a car but the Scots like to walk and so do we. A consultation with the breakfast hostess revealed that the village of Kirkcolm is only about five miles up the road and boasts a pub. Not just any pub but one ranked in the top four of Real Ale’s Pub of the Year competition. We had read an article in DGB Life “the magazine for Dumfries & Galloway and the Scottish Borders” about the Blue Peter Hotel in Kirkcolm and had already decided we wanted to stop in but her suggestion that we visit and enjoy a pint in the back with the resident red squirrels clinched the deal.
We laced up our walking shoes and marched up the road. The phrase pastoral splendor pretty much covers it. We walked past farms and were greeted by cows, horses, pigs, sheep, more cows, chicken, more sheep, ponies and pheasant after pheasant. It was surprising to hear the cackle of a pheasant rooster but it was shocking to hear them time after time. They have ample habitat here and have really taken up residence, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen so many pheasants in the wild before. I kept thinking back to James Herriot’s book All Creatures Great and Small. Was he Scottish? He spent time in Glasgow.
Rounding a bend and dipping down into Kirkcolm we were eagerly anticipating a cool refreshment and sitting for a bit. Our disappointment was palpable as we rattled the door of the Blue Peter. It was locked up tight as a drum until 6pm (5 long hours hence) so we glumly shuffled down the street. The one store in town was similarly shuttered so we had no choice but to about face and work our way back to Corsewall. Oh well. It was a nice day for a walk.
Our steps quickened as the lighthouse came into view. We went directly to the lounge and enjoyed locals beers (Tennants for me and Knockendoch Dark Ale for John) while perusing the books on Scottish history and Whisky.
The dinner service at Corsewall is carefully orchestrated. We are queried in the mid afternoon what time we would like to dine and convene in the lounge about ½ hour prior for a cocktail. In our case it was a dram of Cragganmore for John and one my favorites, Oban for me. This offers an opportunity to peruse the menu and wine list. The host takes our order and presents the wine for inspection. When the table is ready we are escorted into the dining room.
Both night’s repasts were very good. On our first night I had the smoked chicken starter and salmon main. John had a prawn appetizer and pork tornados. I was disappointed in the salmon but I’ve been spoiled and salmon has to be pretty impressive to raise my eyebrows. We ended with a over the top cheese plate for me and a slightly undercooked meringue for John followed by coffee. There were soup and sorbet courses in the middle which all combined to literally have us stagger out of the room. The next night we expected and received a similar experience, a delicious meal with gracious service with a few ragged edges in the food. Well, any slight complaints were quickly erased from our memories. Our meals were exquisite from beginning to end. This is what we had:
A wee dram of Scotch Whisky to start. I enjoyed mellow, light Bladnoch’s from a local distillery, while John had Speyside malt, Knockando.
Our wine selection was a Lebanese, 1999 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekka Valley. Wow! I’m definitely looking for it at home (wine.com please help me!). The intensity and earth flavors matched our meal perfectly.
Starters: Marrbury Smoked Duck Supreme: Plump Barbarrie Duck Breast from a local smokehouse delicately smoked over Juniper and Oak Whisky Cask Shavings for John and Quenelles of their own Smooth Chicken Liver and Ayrshire Bacon Pate, enhanced with “Galloway Pride” Whisky, Herbs and a hint of Garlic for me.
Veloute of Cauliflower and Vegetable
Lemon Sorbet
We both enjoyed the Guinea Fowl and Venison main: Supreme of Guinea Fowl Set on Collops of Red Deer Loin from the Braehead Estate, Pan-seared then oven-roasted. Finished in a Rowanberry and Port Wine Game Stock Reduction. The mix of flavors was perfectly balanced and the guinea fowl and venison literally melted in your mouth.
As if it weren’t enough we finished with a creamy Chocolate Hazelnut Torte for John and my three favorite cheeses from yesterday for me: a stinky, intense Dunsyre Blue, Galloway Cheddar and a strong Tobermory Cheddar from the Isle of Mull. The cheeses here are out of this world!
Our two days passed quickly. Just watching the weather change and the constant ship traffic pass by was worth the visit. The very high winds stopped the ferry service one morning but did not stop us. I would happily return to Corsewall in the future but now it’s time for other adventures.
Our most recent lighthouse accommodation is the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel in the Rhinns of Galloway, Scotland. It is located at the very top, directly south of the Isle of Arran and about 25 miles due east of North Ireland. This historic landmark was erected in 1816 to safeguard shipping coming to and fro the Firth of Clyde and Loch Ryan. Interestingly the lighthouse (along with several others in Scotland) was designed by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of famed poet & author Robert Louis Stevenson.
The Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel is an award winning small hotel that bundles a five course dinner and full breakfast with supurb service in a remote location. To get here we took a two hour train ride from Glasgow Central to Stranraer. Stranraer is the port of the Stena HSS which purportedly offers “the world’s smoothest, largest fast ferry” service to Belfast taking all of 105 minutes. Not destined for Ireland this time around we walked into town and located a taxi to take us the 13 miles to Corsewall. It is speculated that Stranraer might be the site of an early Roman settlement, several ruin sites from various periods are located in Galloway. At present it’s a bustling small port town of about 10,000.
We took up residence in the Ballantrae Suite (so called because of the view of the burgh of Ballantrae across the mouth of Loch Ryan) for our two night stay. I was a bit disappointed with the location of our room. It’s in a separate new building 200 yards from the lighthouse. Despite being banished to the nether-lands I can’t complain about the comfortable set up. I’m not certain where I went wrong when booking but suspect it was the room available with a king sized bed and private bath. We’ve actually got two bedrooms plus a sofa bed and a kitchen, handy in case we make friends I suppose. If we return I’d opt for the Lighthouse Suite which also is in a separate building but part of the historic structures and is faced with large windows looking out to the west.
In addition to our ocean view we also have giant rabbits the size of large cats streaking by and Highland Cattle. We were told that the cattle enjoy being photographed but dislike being petted. All I’ve got from them is the bored apathy of a camera shy teenager while they remain well out of petting reach. I’m content with our fauna selection but can’t help but reminisce about the whales and kangaroos in residence at previous lighthouses.
Our visit coincides with ominous forecasts for the most serious storm of the year. Expected several gales and 80 mile hour winds prompted evacuations along the coast of southwest England and Wales. It seems as if when there’s going to be a significant weather event we’re always right on the cusp. Dare I mention Japan’s Super-typhoon Man-Yi last July? We received several concerned mutterings from people in Glasgow when we mentioned that we were headed for the coast but once here received only “Storm? Bah!” from our Gallovidian taxi driver. I figure that if the weather is truly going to be frightful what better place to ride it out than a spectacular ring side seat tucked into a warm room sipping Scotch Whisky. This lighthouse has been here for 200 years and will stand for many more. Regrettably the force of the storm hit at 5am well past and before my Whisky sipping hour. The building shook as high winds and rain pounded but by the time we arose at 8:30 blue skies were peaking out. The main thrust of the storm hit well to the south of us allowing us to spend the next day tromping over hill and dale.
There is essentially nothing to do here. One can sit and read and stare out to sea. That’s called relaxation and I’m all for it but if there’s exploring to do I’m first in line. Our exploring options were severely curtailed by our lack of a car but the Scots like to walk and so do we. A consultation with the breakfast hostess revealed that the village of Kirkcolm is only about five miles up the road and boasts a pub. Not just any pub but one ranked in the top four of Real Ale’s Pub of the Year competition. We had read an article in DGB Life “the magazine for Dumfries & Galloway and the Scottish Borders” about the Blue Peter Hotel in Kirkcolm and had already decided we wanted to stop in but her suggestion that we visit and enjoy a pint in the back with the resident red squirrels clinched the deal.
We laced up our walking shoes and marched up the road. The phrase pastoral splendor pretty much covers it. We walked past farms and were greeted by cows, horses, pigs, sheep, more cows, chicken, more sheep, ponies and pheasant after pheasant. It was surprising to hear the cackle of a pheasant rooster but it was shocking to hear them time after time. They have ample habitat here and have really taken up residence, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen so many pheasants in the wild before. I kept thinking back to James Herriot’s book All Creatures Great and Small. Was he Scottish? He spent time in Glasgow.
Rounding a bend and dipping down into Kirkcolm we were eagerly anticipating a cool refreshment and sitting for a bit. Our disappointment was palpable as we rattled the door of the Blue Peter. It was locked up tight as a drum until 6pm (5 long hours hence) so we glumly shuffled down the street. The one store in town was similarly shuttered so we had no choice but to about face and work our way back to Corsewall. Oh well. It was a nice day for a walk.
Our steps quickened as the lighthouse came into view. We went directly to the lounge and enjoyed locals beers (Tennants for me and Knockendoch Dark Ale for John) while perusing the books on Scottish history and Whisky.
The dinner service at Corsewall is carefully orchestrated. We are queried in the mid afternoon what time we would like to dine and convene in the lounge about ½ hour prior for a cocktail. In our case it was a dram of Cragganmore for John and one my favorites, Oban for me. This offers an opportunity to peruse the menu and wine list. The host takes our order and presents the wine for inspection. When the table is ready we are escorted into the dining room.
Both night’s repasts were very good. On our first night I had the smoked chicken starter and salmon main. John had a prawn appetizer and pork tornados. I was disappointed in the salmon but I’ve been spoiled and salmon has to be pretty impressive to raise my eyebrows. We ended with a over the top cheese plate for me and a slightly undercooked meringue for John followed by coffee. There were soup and sorbet courses in the middle which all combined to literally have us stagger out of the room. The next night we expected and received a similar experience, a delicious meal with gracious service with a few ragged edges in the food. Well, any slight complaints were quickly erased from our memories. Our meals were exquisite from beginning to end. This is what we had:
A wee dram of Scotch Whisky to start. I enjoyed mellow, light Bladnoch’s from a local distillery, while John had Speyside malt, Knockando.
Our wine selection was a Lebanese, 1999 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekka Valley. Wow! I’m definitely looking for it at home (wine.com please help me!). The intensity and earth flavors matched our meal perfectly.
Starters: Marrbury Smoked Duck Supreme: Plump Barbarrie Duck Breast from a local smokehouse delicately smoked over Juniper and Oak Whisky Cask Shavings for John and Quenelles of their own Smooth Chicken Liver and Ayrshire Bacon Pate, enhanced with “Galloway Pride” Whisky, Herbs and a hint of Garlic for me.
Veloute of Cauliflower and Vegetable
Lemon Sorbet
We both enjoyed the Guinea Fowl and Venison main: Supreme of Guinea Fowl Set on Collops of Red Deer Loin from the Braehead Estate, Pan-seared then oven-roasted. Finished in a Rowanberry and Port Wine Game Stock Reduction. The mix of flavors was perfectly balanced and the guinea fowl and venison literally melted in your mouth.
As if it weren’t enough we finished with a creamy Chocolate Hazelnut Torte for John and my three favorite cheeses from yesterday for me: a stinky, intense Dunsyre Blue, Galloway Cheddar and a strong Tobermory Cheddar from the Isle of Mull. The cheeses here are out of this world!
Our two days passed quickly. Just watching the weather change and the constant ship traffic pass by was worth the visit. The very high winds stopped the ferry service one morning but did not stop us. I would happily return to Corsewall in the future but now it’s time for other adventures.
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