#14 MISSISSIPPI BLUES ROUTE

The Mississippi Visitors Center and Rest Area clinched my positive attitude about the state. It may have been that I had crossed the hurdle of my fight against the common cold and was feeling optimistic about everything but I was happy to be on a road trip. Among the handouts and pamphlets that I gathered was a single sheet with Mississippi Trivia on one side and an extensive list of famous Mississippians on the other.

Just some tidbits:

• Gail Borden produced the first can of condensed milk in Liberty.


• Memorial Day was started in Columbus


• The first co-educational college in the US to grant a degree to a woman was MS College.


• Barq’s Root Beer was invented by Edward Barq in Biloxi in 1898


• The Blazon-Flexible Flyer (snow sled) came from West Point
  

A sampling of famous folks hailing from the Magnolia State include Elvis Presley, Jimmy Buffett, James Earl Jones, Tennessee Williams, William Faulkner, Britney Spears, Muddy Waters, Oprah Winfrey, 6 astronauts, 4 Miss Americas, Brett Favre, Walter Payton and Jerry Rice.

My visit was short but action packed. I drove south from Memphis along US Route 61 through verdant fields of winter wheat to Clarksdale to get a taste of the Mississippi Blues Trail. I loved the small, but comprehensive Delta Blues Museum which boasts the Muddy Waters guitar made from a plank from Muddy Water’s cabin and used on tour by ZZ Top plus the remains of the cabin along with all sorts of nifty memorabilia. Clarksdale hosts several events throughout the year but I was there on a sleepy, soggy April day.

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After getting my fill of blues history I eagerly drove to Abe’s BBQ for tamales, located near the junction of highways 61 and 49 “the crossroads where blues legend tells us you sell your soul to the devil in exchange for the gift of music”. Obviously you need sustenance for such an endeavor and Abe has the right idea. Abe’s is the first restaurant that I’ve been able to visit that is listed in Road Food, a book given to me by my friend Lois. I’ve diligently consulted it prior to every excursion and make note of potential dining spots but something always conspires to thwart my Road Food experience. I enjoyed the recommended tamales along with tart slaw immensely and can’t wait to try other locations from the book!

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I was having a great time and wanted to extend my Mississippi tour instead of heading directly north to Nashville so I detoured east through Oxford, home of William Faulkner and the University of Mississippi aka Ole Miss. Faulkner used Oxford as a backdrop for many of his novels rechristened as Jefferson. Another literary success, John Grisham was a graduate of Ole Miss Law. The antebellum houses line gracious streets and I fantasized about packing up and relocating to a more leisurely lifestyle.

Continuing east I was serenaded by Elvis Radio as I drove through Tupelo, birthplace of THE KING, and easily located 306 Elvis Presley Drive. After a brief exploration I headed north on the Natchez Trace Parkway, a 444 mile drive across Mississippi, the corner of Alabama and Tennessee, culminating just south of Nashville. This former American Indian footpath is liberally sprinkled with wayside exhibits and footpaths and warrants serious lingering but I conceded defeat and fatigue and turned off to the freeway to make a more rapid final push to Nashville and my awaiting hotel.

I truly enjoyed my tour and would most definitely recommend Mississippi as a road trip destination. The state is small, less than 50,000 square miles and I only ventured through the top quadrant. Who knows what delight awaits those who venture deeper into the Deep South?

There is a dark side. Mississippi the poorest state in the union with the US Census reporting 21.3% living below poverty level. The lack of affluence could be a direct reason for the lack of development. There were noticeably fewer Starbuck’s and Taco Bell’s and generic homogenization. Does that mean it’s not economically desirable for those companies to invest here? The funky road side diner/gas station/taxidermy/dental office with a pile of junk out front does not speak well of a standard of living but it’s a delight for my eyes weary of McDonald’s arches.

Kentucky Derby Roller Coaster

I realize that I’m 3 states behind in my posts but today I’m going to write about Barbaro, Seabiscuit, Big Brown and Eight Belles

When I was recently in the Bluegrass State, I was 1 ½ weeks ahead of the Derby festivities and about as far away from Churchill Downs as one could be and still be in the state. It’s horse country and I couldn’t help wishing that my timing was slightly different and I could say I was in Kentucky for the Derby. My sister-in-law was there a few years ago visiting friends in Louisville, it only seems fair that I could be there sometime too! Quilts and horse racing would be the iconic Kentucky experience with a sampling of bourbon for good measure. When I first schemed about visiting all 50 states in one year I fantasized about hitting all of the iconic events. Reality quickly set in and I resolutely reined in my ambitions to my existing plan.

I am not a huge horse racing fan but I love horses. I was fortunate to have horses in my youth and remember watching the “big” races from a young age. A few years ago, when the book and subsequent movie, Seabiscuit, came out John & I really enjoyed both. Always eager to jump on a theme we embraced the Seabiscuit story and took it one step (well several) beyond what one would expect. We went to the Tanforan Mall in San Bruno, CA which is formerly the site of the Tanforan Racetrack and viewed the statue of Seabiscuit. We went to Bay Meadows Race Track for a day of racing to experience the thrill up close. There’s a street in Ingleside District of San Francisco, Urbano Drive, which was a race track in the 1920’s so, of course, we had to march around the loop. See what I mean by beyond?

Two years ago we closely followed the heartbreaking tale of Barbaro and now we have another high-profile tragedy.

Last Saturday I wrote the following excerpted email to my sister-in-law:

Hello from the sexy Days Inn in Sonora. (It's a dump but at least there's wifi) We drove up here this morning to attend the Buie wedding tonight and are taking a brief siesta while watching the Kentucky Derby hype. I can just picture you and Bill in town. I know you didn't go to the race itself but what a thrill to be a part of it all! OH - what a sweet Budweiser commercial - it brought tears to my eyes. Can you imagine me crying to a Budweiser commercial?!? How gauche. Must pause to sing "My Old Kentucky Home"

A perfect segue to the quilt museum. The town was all abuzz with white haired ladies carrying quilted bags. What a zoo! It was two days before the annual National Quilt Show and I naively thought I'd arrive prior to the crowds. Quilts were festooning the entire town of Paducah, Kentucky. I really don't have much to report about the quilts. The crowds were ferocious and there were quilt shows in every public building in town plus many private ones, I imagine. The supposedly really remarkable quilts were in an area that was closed for a private event. All I can say is I'd like to return and I was impressed by the fervor of the quilting fans but I needed to get on the road because Missouri was beckoning so I couldn't linger.


AND THEY'RE OFF......

WOW... go Big Brown!!!!

so, where was I? ah yes, well…

oh no---the filly is down on the track.

…

oh no....how sad...the 2nd place horse broke both front legs and they euthanized her. Horse racing is way too traumatic for me. Tears at a commercial are nothing now.

I know I should write this in a more cohesive manner but I feel like you're sitting here next to me!

The wild spectrum of cheering on a remarkable animal to victory then gasping in despair as the fate of Eight Belles became known was a roller coaster shared by millions across the world. The last two days have brought much commentary and judgment in the media. The Kentucky Derby should bring to mind mint juleps, hats and a rose garland for the winning horse but sadly this year added a tragedy to the mix. I don’t feel the horses are abused but undoubtedly there are issues that need to be addressed. For me the cloud of Barbaro and Eight Belles lingers but the thrill of Big Brown’s accomplishments and heartwarming tale of Seabiscuit shine through. My interests in the tradition of the Derby and in horse racing have been enhanced greatly by my travels and “field trips”. That’s why I do it. That’s why I’ll continue to do it. That’s also why I’ll watch the Preakness Stakes on May 17 cheering Big Brown on and saying a prayer for Eight Belles and Barbaro.

#13 ARKANSAS

I continued straight down the freeway cruising in my cobalt blue Dodge Avenger listening to a rotation of all Elvis- all the time radio and blues. I arrived in Blytheville, AR for a welcome stay at the Hampton Inn. Blytheville is just south of the Missouri border so the bulk of my Arkansas exploration, so to say, was left for the next morning.

Arkansas is a state filled with many sights but for me I didn’t do it justice, only driving through the Delta into Memphis.

When I think of Arkansas two things come to mind: WalMart and Bill Clinton.
Bill Clinton, the 42nd President of the United States, was born in Hope, AR which is on the opposite side of the state. Is there some sort of monument to him there? I don’t even know. His Presidential Library is in Little Rock and sounds to be very worthy of a visit. Other notable Arkansas natives are Scott Joplin, Douglas MacArthur and Maya Angelou.

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I saw no one of that renown but I did visit a WalMart. Sam Walton, a businessman from Arkansas, began his retail career at a J.C. Penney store in Iowa. I really wish it had been the J.C. Penney flagship store in Kemmerer, WY because it would then appear as if I was doing some sort of cohesive research and had a master plan in my travel but it’s strictly coincidence that I went by the first Penney’s two weeks ago. Walton’s retail career led him to Bentonville, AR where he opened "Walton's Five and Dime" Which eventually led to WalMart, which love it or hate, it one of the largest retail companies in the world, serving over 176 million weekly (so says walmart.com). I was one of the 176 million when I wandered in search of more cold medicine. My third purchase in three states that day. At least I was experiencing a part of Arkansas culture!

My gasoline purchase seemed worthy of documentation. Will I ever see regular unleaded for 3.39.9 again?

Just one example of what I was sharing the road with.

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An interesting bit of trivia about the naming of the state: It was originally the Territory of Arkansaw formed from land acquired in the Louisiana Purchase but a compromise and an act of the state senate designated the name Arkansas but pronounced ar-kan-saw when they attained statehood in 1836.

and then I crossed the Mississippi...

#12 MISSOURI

One bridge across the Ohio River led me very briefly into the southern tip of Illinois before crossing a second bridge over the Mississippi River into Missouri. I wish I took pictures of the bridges but I was calling my sister to say "hey, I'm in your state" and the time it took to leave the message was my entire travel time through Illinois. I did say brief!

When I decided to attempt something as crazy as visiting all 50 states this year I set out some visiting criteria for myself. First, layovers without leaving the airport don't count, neither do just driving into a state and turning around and driving out. I vowed to participate in some type of commerce or, ideally, a cultural or physical activity. So here I am in Missouri basically just driving along the eastern edge on the interstate, commonly known as the "Bootheel". The Mississippi River twists off to my left as I drive through essentially flat farmland. There are few logical stops but I was determined to make it count.

My first stop was one of desperation. I had a cold. It was one of those pesky my nose is running, eyes are watering and I keep sneezing every two minutes type of plague that made me grateful nobody was in the car with me. Frankly, I didn't want to be in the car with me. I had purchased cold medicine in Kentucky and it wasn't doing the trick. I exited the highway and went into this lovely Country Mart. Is this going to be my commerce of the trip? Cold medicine and a jumbo box of deluxe tissue, you know the spiffy kind with the lotion. How pathetic I've become!

The only site of interest on the map was the Hunter- Dawson Historic Site on New Madrid, MO. That's the site for me! They offer tours of a "majestic mansion illustrating the grand lifestyle once enjoyed by one of southeast Missouri's wealthy families during the late 1800's". Nifty! New Madrid sites right on the banks of the Mississippi where it loops in almost a 360 degree turn. Unfortunately my timing was off to tour the mansion but I enjoyed the town and wondered where all of the 3000 residents could possibly be.

An example of the flat terrain I was exploring.

Proof I was actually in the state with a rather artsy reflection of my phone in my glasses.

Next: Arkansas.

#11 KENTUCKY

This is the first post from my 5 state loop from Nashville, TN. I'm in Nashville to participate in the Country Music Marathon and couldn't resist checking out the neighborhood states. My first morning I drove to Paducah, KY, home of the National Quilt Museum. Coincidently the American Quilter's Society annual show is being held this weekend. I thought being there on the Wednesday prior to the show would allow me to experience some of the excitement but avoid the fray. WRONG! It was a zoo. The place was crawling with white haired ladies toting quilted bags making their pilgrimage to this Quilter's Mecca. I suspected attendance would escalate exponentially in the next few days but won't be around to witness it. The quilts I saw were spectacular but unfortunately no photos were permitted.

A little history...

The best part of Paducah was wandering around the historic downtown and seeing how the community has embraced the quilters. Every business was festooned with quilts and fabrics even this 20 foot cow. While I think it's a lovely cow, I have to wonder if it's a usual Main Street accessory.

more history....

$5 ???? Next: Missouri.

#10 WYOMING

Wyoming: where the deer and the antelope roam - really!

This a continuation of our tour of Utah and the Southwestern corner of Wyoming. It was cold! To clarify some confusion about my Utah pix: yes, it really was 34 at Echo Lake and we weren't bundled up because we hopped out of the car to take some pictures and got right back in. By the time we made it to Antelope Island it had warmed up to about 65. I'm sure the way I was dressed has nothing to do with the fact I am suffering from a cold right now, so don't even bother to bring it up.



We entered Wyoming on Interstate 80 and made our first stop in Evanston. The Bear River meanders through the town and we walked a mile along the paved path. I bet it's beautiful when the leaves come out but right now it was a muddy mess with pockets of snow. We enjoyed it nonetheless!

Bison along the path.

Well, fine...notice heeded.

We then headed north along Highway 189 to Kemmerer passing numerous heards of deer and antelope along the way. You'll have to take my word for it because all of the antelope pictures were taken by Lois. She uploaded them to Snapfish and while they're terrific to look at, I can't download them here so you'll have to be content with the antelope image at the top of this post.

Kemmerer is the home of JC Penney. An interesting bit of trivia but the flagship store didn't entice us stop for a visit. Lunch at the only restaurant we could locate in town, Taco John's, was just fine. A few miles west was the Fossil Butte National Monument. A fascinating stop with the potential for some great hikes if all of the roads and trails hadn't been closed due to snow. We were at an altitude of over 7000 feet so winter lingering into mid-April shouldn't have surprised us, but it did. Oh well, a reason to return...

#9 UTAH

Last weekend I met my friend Lois in Salt Lake City, Utah. We hit the highway, driving a loop to Wyoming and back to Ogden. The highlight was hiking on Antelope Island State Park in Salt Lake. See for yourself...

First view from the air.

Lois & I at Echo Lake - it was only 34 degrees! Brrrr!

Both the Oregon Trail and Pony Express Trail went through the area we explored.

Proof!

View of the Great Salt Lake from the levee road to Antelope Island.

What a surreal vista!

On the trail.