In preparation of my impending trip to Scotland in March my Netflix queue was bubbling over with movies that relate to Scotland.
There were historical epics: Rob Roy, Braveheart, The Master of Ballentrae (I’m not certain one can count an Errol Flynn film as an epic, but what the hey.)
Films featuring Scottish actors: Finding Forrester
And based on true stories: The Flying Scotsman
And documentaries: History’s Mysteries: The True Story of Braveheart, Globe Trekker Scotland
And set in Scotland: American Cousins, The Winter Tale, My Life So Far
Or featuring the Forth Rail Bridge: The 39 Steps (in 1935 original but more in 1959 remake), Bon Voyage, Charlie Brown, 1980 (Linus points out the Forth Bridge as the approach Heathrow, disregarding the fact that it’s 273 nautical miles away, unfortunately for all of you Peanuts fans the only film not available on NetFlix)
Then there’s those based upon Scottish books: Young Adam, The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie
And, well, just trust me that there’s a connection somehow…
Below is my list so you too can patronize your local video store or fill your Netflix queue with all things Scotland, complete list with links to Netflix descriptions.
If you’re only going to watch one film about Scotland make it Braveheart. It’s filled with inaccuracies and overly melodramatic but William Wallace, Robert the Bruce and references to the film come up again and again.
Braveheart
Gregory's Girl
Rob Roy
Trainspotting: Collector's Edition
The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie
The 39 Steps
The Master of Ballantrae
Young Adam
The Wicker Man
Brigadoon
Chariots of Fire
Local Hero
Monty Python and the Holy Grail
Mary, Queen of Scots
Mary of Scotland
A Musical Journey: Scotland
Ring of Bright Water
Lassie Come Home
Visions of Scotland
Restless Natives
A Fond Kiss
Sweet Sixteen
Shallow Grave
Highlander
Loch Ness
The Castles of Scotland (2-Disc Series)
Finding Forrester
The Flying Scotsman
American Cousins
My Life So Far
The Winter's Tale
Globe Trekker: Scotland
The True Story of Braveheart
I’m a huge fan of NetFlix. Others love different DVD services but I say stick with what works for you. I was very excited to watch Gregory’s Girl a few weeks ago and was dismayed to insert the disc and what started playing but a STUPID #*%#%$ Dog Training DVD. I don’t even have a dog! Well, I promptly returned it NetFlix and they correspondingly sent it right back to me “It appears that you accidently returned one of your personal DVDs or CDs in a Netflix envelope. Rest assured, we will send your disc right back to you.” AUUGGHH!
There’s no option for resolution for a problem like this on their website so I called. I quickly reached a real person who very helpfully instructed me on what steps to take to clear this up. OK, I send it back to them anonymously and two days later what happens? You guessed it. Right back to me. Another phone call (again pleasant and helpful) and I think we’ve sorted it. So somewhere out there somebody’s dog is going untrained and maybe eventually I’ll get to watch Gregory’s Girl.
Always an adventure isn’t it?
Friday, March 21, 2008
Thursday, March 20, 2008
Scotland Reading List
Below is an expanded, adapted list of Scottish literature. I’m not sure of the origin of the list but suspect it came from Edinburgh newspaper, The Scotsman, which is good reading in its own right. I’ve read the starred ones but have looked over most. I need another trip to read more!
The 44 Scotland Street Series by Alexander McCall Smith:
44 Scotland Street
Espresso Tales
* Love Over Scotland
This serial relates tales of manners and intrigue in Edinburgh’s New Town. Light reading to counteract some of the darker selections here.
Driftnet, by Lin Anderson: This crime book has flown off shelves. When a teenage boy is found murdered in a Glasgow flat, forensic psychologist Rhone MacLeod finds likenesses between herself and the victim. Could he be the son she put up for adoption 17 years before?
* Sunset Song by Lewis Grassic Gibbon: Recently voted the best Scottish book of all time, Sunset Song remains a classic across the land. What young woman wouldn’t identify with its heroine, Chris Guthrie, torn between the countryside of her birth and the modern world?
The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie by Muriel Spark: As much a time and a place as a character, Spark’s Jean Brodie came to embody a generation of Edinburgh women. Her unconventional ways and blatant favoritism made her both terrifying and alluring.
Knots and Crosses by Ian Rankin: This is where it all started for John Rebus – Rankin’s hard-drinking Edinburgh crime-fighter – with the murder of three girls. When messages made of knotted string and matchsticks start arriving, Rebus realizes it’s personal.
Buddha Da by Anne Donovan: This beautiful novel won rave reviews when first published. Though written entirely in Glaswegian Scots, it’s an easy and lyrical read about a decorator who becomes a Buddhist, one of Scottish independent publisher’s, Canongate Books’ selection for the Scottish exhibition.
Whisky Galore by Compton Mackensie: A simply hilarious tale of ill-gotten whisky gain on a Scottish island in wartime.
Boswell’s Edinburgh Journals, 1787 – 1786 by James Boswell: High times and low lifes in the Edinburgh of Enlightenment. Boswell’s diaries were instrumental in documenting 18th-century Reekie as he drank and debated philosophical thoughts with Adam Smith and David Hume, and mixed with the city’s seedier side.
To the Hebrides: Samuel Johnson's Journey to the Western Islands and James Boswell's Journal of a Tour by James Boswell and Samuel Johnson
Trainspotting by Irvine Welsh: When the movie was released, American theaters showed it with subtitles. Despite the language barrier, Welsh enjoys a huge following in the US.
Selected Poems of Carol Ann Duffy: Passed over for Poet Laureate a few years back, Duffy is nonetheless Scotland’s foremost poet. Whether writing about love, loss or childhood, Duffy’s voice is clean, clear and accessible. Many see her as a cheerier, modern-day Sylvia Plath.
* Notes from a Small Island by Bill Bryson: Bryson always elicits laughter and this account of his trek around Britain is no exception.
Greenvoe by George Mackay Brown: When a mysterious military project threatens his way of life unchanged for generations on th eOrcadian island of Hellya, chaos prevails. Mackay Brown’s evocative writing conjures up the myths and magic as well as the isolation of island life.
* Kidnapped by Robert Louis Stevenson: Revel in young David Balfour’s adventures and marvel at how it engages young and old.
Lanark by Alasdair Gray: A Glasgow institution, Lanark was Gray’s first novel, and arguably his finest.
The Missing by Andrew o’Hagan: Mixing autobiography with social commentary, O’Hagen asks what impact a human being going missing has on kivelihoods and communities. Examining a side of Britain often unseen and unheard, he brings to light a country many would not recognize.
New Selected Poems by Edwin Morgan: His public appearances sell out in seconds, and he is more universally loved by the Scots than the Cairngorns. This includes older poems as well as his more recent work.
The Wasp Factory by Ian Banks: Dark, detached and brilliant, Iain Bank’s first novel remains his finest. Frank is a teenager on a remote Scottish island whose strange obsessions, and the varying degrees of insanity of his family members, become increasingly horrifying. Makes Stephen King look like Beatrix Potter.
The Bridge, also by Ian Banks: This novel is mainly set on a fictionalized version of the Forth Rail Bridge.
Young Adam by Alexander Trocchi: The second book on the list to have been madeinto a film starring Ewan McGregor, Trocchi’s most famous work, set on barges traveling between Glasgow and Edinburgh, has drawn parallels with Albert Camus’ the Outsider. Quite pornographic in parts.
Waverley by Sir Walter Scott: For tourist who have arrived at Waverley station and visited the Scott Monument, this is the real thing, the story of the Jacobite uprising of 1745 and the idealistic young Edward Waverley, drawn in to Bonnie Prince Charlie’s web. A classic of classics.
Mary, Queen of Scots by Antonia Fraser: Perhaps no resident of Edinburgh is more famous than Mary Queen of Scots. Ironically, she lived in the land for only twelve of her forty-four years and her period of personal rule lasted a mere six years, none of which were free from strife.
The Cone Gatherers by Robin Jenkins: Scotland’s Of Mice and Men, Robin Jenkins’ haunting novel is set during WWII on a Scottish country estate and tells the story of two brothers working as cone gatherers. Mysterious and tragic, it remains a classic moral tale.
Divided City by Theresa Breslin: It’s the marching season in Glasgow and young Graham just wants to play football, but he finds himself involved in old rivalries between Catholics and Protestants, and, in newer conflicts, with a young Muslim. This children’s book is a timely insight into sectarianism and racism.
Finally, anything by the Scottish cultural icon Robert S. Burns.
The 44 Scotland Street Series by Alexander McCall Smith:
44 Scotland Street
Espresso Tales
* Love Over Scotland
This serial relates tales of manners and intrigue in Edinburgh’s New Town. Light reading to counteract some of the darker selections here.
Driftnet, by Lin Anderson: This crime book has flown off shelves. When a teenage boy is found murdered in a Glasgow flat, forensic psychologist Rhone MacLeod finds likenesses between herself and the victim. Could he be the son she put up for adoption 17 years before?
* Sunset Song by Lewis Grassic Gibbon: Recently voted the best Scottish book of all time, Sunset Song remains a classic across the land. What young woman wouldn’t identify with its heroine, Chris Guthrie, torn between the countryside of her birth and the modern world?
The Prime of Miss Jean Brodie by Muriel Spark: As much a time and a place as a character, Spark’s Jean Brodie came to embody a generation of Edinburgh women. Her unconventional ways and blatant favoritism made her both terrifying and alluring.
Knots and Crosses by Ian Rankin: This is where it all started for John Rebus – Rankin’s hard-drinking Edinburgh crime-fighter – with the murder of three girls. When messages made of knotted string and matchsticks start arriving, Rebus realizes it’s personal.
Buddha Da by Anne Donovan: This beautiful novel won rave reviews when first published. Though written entirely in Glaswegian Scots, it’s an easy and lyrical read about a decorator who becomes a Buddhist, one of Scottish independent publisher’s, Canongate Books’ selection for the Scottish exhibition.
Whisky Galore by Compton Mackensie: A simply hilarious tale of ill-gotten whisky gain on a Scottish island in wartime.
Boswell’s Edinburgh Journals, 1787 – 1786 by James Boswell: High times and low lifes in the Edinburgh of Enlightenment. Boswell’s diaries were instrumental in documenting 18th-century Reekie as he drank and debated philosophical thoughts with Adam Smith and David Hume, and mixed with the city’s seedier side.
To the Hebrides: Samuel Johnson's Journey to the Western Islands and James Boswell's Journal of a Tour by James Boswell and Samuel Johnson
Trainspotting by Irvine Welsh: When the movie was released, American theaters showed it with subtitles. Despite the language barrier, Welsh enjoys a huge following in the US.
Selected Poems of Carol Ann Duffy: Passed over for Poet Laureate a few years back, Duffy is nonetheless Scotland’s foremost poet. Whether writing about love, loss or childhood, Duffy’s voice is clean, clear and accessible. Many see her as a cheerier, modern-day Sylvia Plath.
* Notes from a Small Island by Bill Bryson: Bryson always elicits laughter and this account of his trek around Britain is no exception.
Greenvoe by George Mackay Brown: When a mysterious military project threatens his way of life unchanged for generations on th eOrcadian island of Hellya, chaos prevails. Mackay Brown’s evocative writing conjures up the myths and magic as well as the isolation of island life.
* Kidnapped by Robert Louis Stevenson: Revel in young David Balfour’s adventures and marvel at how it engages young and old.
Lanark by Alasdair Gray: A Glasgow institution, Lanark was Gray’s first novel, and arguably his finest.
The Missing by Andrew o’Hagan: Mixing autobiography with social commentary, O’Hagen asks what impact a human being going missing has on kivelihoods and communities. Examining a side of Britain often unseen and unheard, he brings to light a country many would not recognize.
New Selected Poems by Edwin Morgan: His public appearances sell out in seconds, and he is more universally loved by the Scots than the Cairngorns. This includes older poems as well as his more recent work.
The Wasp Factory by Ian Banks: Dark, detached and brilliant, Iain Bank’s first novel remains his finest. Frank is a teenager on a remote Scottish island whose strange obsessions, and the varying degrees of insanity of his family members, become increasingly horrifying. Makes Stephen King look like Beatrix Potter.
The Bridge, also by Ian Banks: This novel is mainly set on a fictionalized version of the Forth Rail Bridge.
Young Adam by Alexander Trocchi: The second book on the list to have been madeinto a film starring Ewan McGregor, Trocchi’s most famous work, set on barges traveling between Glasgow and Edinburgh, has drawn parallels with Albert Camus’ the Outsider. Quite pornographic in parts.
Waverley by Sir Walter Scott: For tourist who have arrived at Waverley station and visited the Scott Monument, this is the real thing, the story of the Jacobite uprising of 1745 and the idealistic young Edward Waverley, drawn in to Bonnie Prince Charlie’s web. A classic of classics.
Mary, Queen of Scots by Antonia Fraser: Perhaps no resident of Edinburgh is more famous than Mary Queen of Scots. Ironically, she lived in the land for only twelve of her forty-four years and her period of personal rule lasted a mere six years, none of which were free from strife.
The Cone Gatherers by Robin Jenkins: Scotland’s Of Mice and Men, Robin Jenkins’ haunting novel is set during WWII on a Scottish country estate and tells the story of two brothers working as cone gatherers. Mysterious and tragic, it remains a classic moral tale.
Divided City by Theresa Breslin: It’s the marching season in Glasgow and young Graham just wants to play football, but he finds himself involved in old rivalries between Catholics and Protestants, and, in newer conflicts, with a young Muslim. This children’s book is a timely insight into sectarianism and racism.
Finally, anything by the Scottish cultural icon Robert S. Burns.
Saturday, March 15, 2008
Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel
John & I visit lighthouses. I always say that he likes the maritime history and mechanics of a lighthouse but I just like where they’re located. That’s not entirely truthful but the gist is. We have pledged to stay in a lighthouse every year for our anniversary and have thrown in a few extra for good measure. We’ve visited 53 lighthouses and have stayed in nine so far.
Our most recent lighthouse accommodation is the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel in the Rhinns of Galloway, Scotland. It is located at the very top, directly south of the Isle of Arran and about 25 miles due east of North Ireland. This historic landmark was erected in 1816 to safeguard shipping coming to and fro the Firth of Clyde and Loch Ryan. Interestingly the lighthouse (along with several others in Scotland) was designed by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of famed poet & author Robert Louis Stevenson.
The Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel is an award winning small hotel that bundles a five course dinner and full breakfast with supurb service in a remote location. To get here we took a two hour train ride from Glasgow Central to Stranraer. Stranraer is the port of the Stena HSS which purportedly offers “the world’s smoothest, largest fast ferry” service to Belfast taking all of 105 minutes. Not destined for Ireland this time around we walked into town and located a taxi to take us the 13 miles to Corsewall. It is speculated that Stranraer might be the site of an early Roman settlement, several ruin sites from various periods are located in Galloway. At present it’s a bustling small port town of about 10,000.
We took up residence in the Ballantrae Suite (so called because of the view of the burgh of Ballantrae across the mouth of Loch Ryan) for our two night stay. I was a bit disappointed with the location of our room. It’s in a separate new building 200 yards from the lighthouse. Despite being banished to the nether-lands I can’t complain about the comfortable set up. I’m not certain where I went wrong when booking but suspect it was the room available with a king sized bed and private bath. We’ve actually got two bedrooms plus a sofa bed and a kitchen, handy in case we make friends I suppose. If we return I’d opt for the Lighthouse Suite which also is in a separate building but part of the historic structures and is faced with large windows looking out to the west.
In addition to our ocean view we also have giant rabbits the size of large cats streaking by and Highland Cattle. We were told that the cattle enjoy being photographed but dislike being petted. All I’ve got from them is the bored apathy of a camera shy teenager while they remain well out of petting reach. I’m content with our fauna selection but can’t help but reminisce about the whales and kangaroos in residence at previous lighthouses.
Our visit coincides with ominous forecasts for the most serious storm of the year. Expected several gales and 80 mile hour winds prompted evacuations along the coast of southwest England and Wales. It seems as if when there’s going to be a significant weather event we’re always right on the cusp. Dare I mention Japan’s Super-typhoon Man-Yi last July? We received several concerned mutterings from people in Glasgow when we mentioned that we were headed for the coast but once here received only “Storm? Bah!” from our Gallovidian taxi driver. I figure that if the weather is truly going to be frightful what better place to ride it out than a spectacular ring side seat tucked into a warm room sipping Scotch Whisky. This lighthouse has been here for 200 years and will stand for many more. Regrettably the force of the storm hit at 5am well past and before my Whisky sipping hour. The building shook as high winds and rain pounded but by the time we arose at 8:30 blue skies were peaking out. The main thrust of the storm hit well to the south of us allowing us to spend the next day tromping over hill and dale.
There is essentially nothing to do here. One can sit and read and stare out to sea. That’s called relaxation and I’m all for it but if there’s exploring to do I’m first in line. Our exploring options were severely curtailed by our lack of a car but the Scots like to walk and so do we. A consultation with the breakfast hostess revealed that the village of Kirkcolm is only about five miles up the road and boasts a pub. Not just any pub but one ranked in the top four of Real Ale’s Pub of the Year competition. We had read an article in DGB Life “the magazine for Dumfries & Galloway and the Scottish Borders” about the Blue Peter Hotel in Kirkcolm and had already decided we wanted to stop in but her suggestion that we visit and enjoy a pint in the back with the resident red squirrels clinched the deal.
We laced up our walking shoes and marched up the road. The phrase pastoral splendor pretty much covers it. We walked past farms and were greeted by cows, horses, pigs, sheep, more cows, chicken, more sheep, ponies and pheasant after pheasant. It was surprising to hear the cackle of a pheasant rooster but it was shocking to hear them time after time. They have ample habitat here and have really taken up residence, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen so many pheasants in the wild before. I kept thinking back to James Herriot’s book All Creatures Great and Small. Was he Scottish? He spent time in Glasgow.
Rounding a bend and dipping down into Kirkcolm we were eagerly anticipating a cool refreshment and sitting for a bit. Our disappointment was palpable as we rattled the door of the Blue Peter. It was locked up tight as a drum until 6pm (5 long hours hence) so we glumly shuffled down the street. The one store in town was similarly shuttered so we had no choice but to about face and work our way back to Corsewall. Oh well. It was a nice day for a walk.
Our steps quickened as the lighthouse came into view. We went directly to the lounge and enjoyed locals beers (Tennants for me and Knockendoch Dark Ale for John) while perusing the books on Scottish history and Whisky.
The dinner service at Corsewall is carefully orchestrated. We are queried in the mid afternoon what time we would like to dine and convene in the lounge about ½ hour prior for a cocktail. In our case it was a dram of Cragganmore for John and one my favorites, Oban for me. This offers an opportunity to peruse the menu and wine list. The host takes our order and presents the wine for inspection. When the table is ready we are escorted into the dining room.
Both night’s repasts were very good. On our first night I had the smoked chicken starter and salmon main. John had a prawn appetizer and pork tornados. I was disappointed in the salmon but I’ve been spoiled and salmon has to be pretty impressive to raise my eyebrows. We ended with a over the top cheese plate for me and a slightly undercooked meringue for John followed by coffee. There were soup and sorbet courses in the middle which all combined to literally have us stagger out of the room. The next night we expected and received a similar experience, a delicious meal with gracious service with a few ragged edges in the food. Well, any slight complaints were quickly erased from our memories. Our meals were exquisite from beginning to end. This is what we had:
A wee dram of Scotch Whisky to start. I enjoyed mellow, light Bladnoch’s from a local distillery, while John had Speyside malt, Knockando.
Our wine selection was a Lebanese, 1999 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekka Valley. Wow! I’m definitely looking for it at home (wine.com please help me!). The intensity and earth flavors matched our meal perfectly.
Starters: Marrbury Smoked Duck Supreme: Plump Barbarrie Duck Breast from a local smokehouse delicately smoked over Juniper and Oak Whisky Cask Shavings for John and Quenelles of their own Smooth Chicken Liver and Ayrshire Bacon Pate, enhanced with “Galloway Pride” Whisky, Herbs and a hint of Garlic for me.
Veloute of Cauliflower and Vegetable
Lemon Sorbet
We both enjoyed the Guinea Fowl and Venison main: Supreme of Guinea Fowl Set on Collops of Red Deer Loin from the Braehead Estate, Pan-seared then oven-roasted. Finished in a Rowanberry and Port Wine Game Stock Reduction. The mix of flavors was perfectly balanced and the guinea fowl and venison literally melted in your mouth.
As if it weren’t enough we finished with a creamy Chocolate Hazelnut Torte for John and my three favorite cheeses from yesterday for me: a stinky, intense Dunsyre Blue, Galloway Cheddar and a strong Tobermory Cheddar from the Isle of Mull. The cheeses here are out of this world!
Our two days passed quickly. Just watching the weather change and the constant ship traffic pass by was worth the visit. The very high winds stopped the ferry service one morning but did not stop us. I would happily return to Corsewall in the future but now it’s time for other adventures.
Our most recent lighthouse accommodation is the Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel in the Rhinns of Galloway, Scotland. It is located at the very top, directly south of the Isle of Arran and about 25 miles due east of North Ireland. This historic landmark was erected in 1816 to safeguard shipping coming to and fro the Firth of Clyde and Loch Ryan. Interestingly the lighthouse (along with several others in Scotland) was designed by Robert Stevenson, grandfather of famed poet & author Robert Louis Stevenson.
The Corsewall Lighthouse Hotel is an award winning small hotel that bundles a five course dinner and full breakfast with supurb service in a remote location. To get here we took a two hour train ride from Glasgow Central to Stranraer. Stranraer is the port of the Stena HSS which purportedly offers “the world’s smoothest, largest fast ferry” service to Belfast taking all of 105 minutes. Not destined for Ireland this time around we walked into town and located a taxi to take us the 13 miles to Corsewall. It is speculated that Stranraer might be the site of an early Roman settlement, several ruin sites from various periods are located in Galloway. At present it’s a bustling small port town of about 10,000.
We took up residence in the Ballantrae Suite (so called because of the view of the burgh of Ballantrae across the mouth of Loch Ryan) for our two night stay. I was a bit disappointed with the location of our room. It’s in a separate new building 200 yards from the lighthouse. Despite being banished to the nether-lands I can’t complain about the comfortable set up. I’m not certain where I went wrong when booking but suspect it was the room available with a king sized bed and private bath. We’ve actually got two bedrooms plus a sofa bed and a kitchen, handy in case we make friends I suppose. If we return I’d opt for the Lighthouse Suite which also is in a separate building but part of the historic structures and is faced with large windows looking out to the west.
In addition to our ocean view we also have giant rabbits the size of large cats streaking by and Highland Cattle. We were told that the cattle enjoy being photographed but dislike being petted. All I’ve got from them is the bored apathy of a camera shy teenager while they remain well out of petting reach. I’m content with our fauna selection but can’t help but reminisce about the whales and kangaroos in residence at previous lighthouses.
Our visit coincides with ominous forecasts for the most serious storm of the year. Expected several gales and 80 mile hour winds prompted evacuations along the coast of southwest England and Wales. It seems as if when there’s going to be a significant weather event we’re always right on the cusp. Dare I mention Japan’s Super-typhoon Man-Yi last July? We received several concerned mutterings from people in Glasgow when we mentioned that we were headed for the coast but once here received only “Storm? Bah!” from our Gallovidian taxi driver. I figure that if the weather is truly going to be frightful what better place to ride it out than a spectacular ring side seat tucked into a warm room sipping Scotch Whisky. This lighthouse has been here for 200 years and will stand for many more. Regrettably the force of the storm hit at 5am well past and before my Whisky sipping hour. The building shook as high winds and rain pounded but by the time we arose at 8:30 blue skies were peaking out. The main thrust of the storm hit well to the south of us allowing us to spend the next day tromping over hill and dale.
There is essentially nothing to do here. One can sit and read and stare out to sea. That’s called relaxation and I’m all for it but if there’s exploring to do I’m first in line. Our exploring options were severely curtailed by our lack of a car but the Scots like to walk and so do we. A consultation with the breakfast hostess revealed that the village of Kirkcolm is only about five miles up the road and boasts a pub. Not just any pub but one ranked in the top four of Real Ale’s Pub of the Year competition. We had read an article in DGB Life “the magazine for Dumfries & Galloway and the Scottish Borders” about the Blue Peter Hotel in Kirkcolm and had already decided we wanted to stop in but her suggestion that we visit and enjoy a pint in the back with the resident red squirrels clinched the deal.
We laced up our walking shoes and marched up the road. The phrase pastoral splendor pretty much covers it. We walked past farms and were greeted by cows, horses, pigs, sheep, more cows, chicken, more sheep, ponies and pheasant after pheasant. It was surprising to hear the cackle of a pheasant rooster but it was shocking to hear them time after time. They have ample habitat here and have really taken up residence, I don’t believe I’ve ever seen so many pheasants in the wild before. I kept thinking back to James Herriot’s book All Creatures Great and Small. Was he Scottish? He spent time in Glasgow.
Rounding a bend and dipping down into Kirkcolm we were eagerly anticipating a cool refreshment and sitting for a bit. Our disappointment was palpable as we rattled the door of the Blue Peter. It was locked up tight as a drum until 6pm (5 long hours hence) so we glumly shuffled down the street. The one store in town was similarly shuttered so we had no choice but to about face and work our way back to Corsewall. Oh well. It was a nice day for a walk.
Our steps quickened as the lighthouse came into view. We went directly to the lounge and enjoyed locals beers (Tennants for me and Knockendoch Dark Ale for John) while perusing the books on Scottish history and Whisky.
The dinner service at Corsewall is carefully orchestrated. We are queried in the mid afternoon what time we would like to dine and convene in the lounge about ½ hour prior for a cocktail. In our case it was a dram of Cragganmore for John and one my favorites, Oban for me. This offers an opportunity to peruse the menu and wine list. The host takes our order and presents the wine for inspection. When the table is ready we are escorted into the dining room.
Both night’s repasts were very good. On our first night I had the smoked chicken starter and salmon main. John had a prawn appetizer and pork tornados. I was disappointed in the salmon but I’ve been spoiled and salmon has to be pretty impressive to raise my eyebrows. We ended with a over the top cheese plate for me and a slightly undercooked meringue for John followed by coffee. There were soup and sorbet courses in the middle which all combined to literally have us stagger out of the room. The next night we expected and received a similar experience, a delicious meal with gracious service with a few ragged edges in the food. Well, any slight complaints were quickly erased from our memories. Our meals were exquisite from beginning to end. This is what we had:
A wee dram of Scotch Whisky to start. I enjoyed mellow, light Bladnoch’s from a local distillery, while John had Speyside malt, Knockando.
Our wine selection was a Lebanese, 1999 Chateau Musar, Gaston Hochar, Bekka Valley. Wow! I’m definitely looking for it at home (wine.com please help me!). The intensity and earth flavors matched our meal perfectly.
Starters: Marrbury Smoked Duck Supreme: Plump Barbarrie Duck Breast from a local smokehouse delicately smoked over Juniper and Oak Whisky Cask Shavings for John and Quenelles of their own Smooth Chicken Liver and Ayrshire Bacon Pate, enhanced with “Galloway Pride” Whisky, Herbs and a hint of Garlic for me.
Veloute of Cauliflower and Vegetable
Lemon Sorbet
We both enjoyed the Guinea Fowl and Venison main: Supreme of Guinea Fowl Set on Collops of Red Deer Loin from the Braehead Estate, Pan-seared then oven-roasted. Finished in a Rowanberry and Port Wine Game Stock Reduction. The mix of flavors was perfectly balanced and the guinea fowl and venison literally melted in your mouth.
As if it weren’t enough we finished with a creamy Chocolate Hazelnut Torte for John and my three favorite cheeses from yesterday for me: a stinky, intense Dunsyre Blue, Galloway Cheddar and a strong Tobermory Cheddar from the Isle of Mull. The cheeses here are out of this world!
Our two days passed quickly. Just watching the weather change and the constant ship traffic pass by was worth the visit. The very high winds stopped the ferry service one morning but did not stop us. I would happily return to Corsewall in the future but now it’s time for other adventures.
Friday, March 7, 2008
The Oxalis Soup Project
The Oxalis Soup experiment was a great success. I enjoyed pulling weeds for dinner – a perfect multi-task. I knew that I couldn’t come close to duplicating the Nettle and Oxalis Soup I enjoyed the other night at Coi. Daniel Patterson is a culinary GOD and I don’t pretend to recognize what he’s done to create such an elixir. I can easily recognize that it’s darn good! I thank him for the inspiration to try something new. My soup featured spinach and oxalis in a chicken stock base. I mixed in a bit of coconut milk because that was what I had and served the soup poured over cubed avocado (again because I had it on hand) with an oxalis blossom garnish. It had a tart green apple aroma and I’m eager to try it again. When I Googled Oxalis Soup I found a few recipes, mostly where it was substituted for sorrel. The Food Lovers Companion is usually such a good resource but all they offered was an entry on oxalic acid: “blah, blah, blah…poisonous in large doses…blah, blah, blah”. Who knew eating oxalis would be so exotic, kind of like eating blowfish! I’m such an adventuress! Makes you think twice about coming to dinner at my house doesn’t it?One last gush about Coi: the table linens were Frette. Nothing more need be said!
I’m not caught up on my posts; check back for my write-up on Oregon. Regardless, I’ve been home for nine whole days and it’s time to dust off the suitcase. John & I leave for Scotland this afternoon. Land of haggis & kilts here we come! This trip will do nothing to contribute to my goal of hitting all fifty states but it should be fodder for several blog posts so stay tuned.
Cheerio…
Wednesday, March 5, 2008
#7 ALABAMA
To be read while humming Sweet Home Alabama… Turn it up! Gotta love Lynyrd Skynyrd! “in Birmingham they love the gov’ner…”http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huLklsj_5HI
OK enough silliness…this is serious blog post because Alabama was my 7th State! John & I grabbed our two favorite Georgia residents and made a run for the border. We spent the night in Oxford, AL, and dined at the Longhorn Grill (no Longhorns actually reside in AL to the best of my knowledge – their stomping ground is a few states west). We played in the rain at a park where an original, restored, relocated covered bridge sits next to a nifty playground. Our new found hobby of duck chasing got a reprise. After harassing the wildlife we got a dose of culture at the Anniston Natural History Museum and listened to tornado sirens (apparently a local pastime). I just realized that half of my blog posts have pictures of taxidermied animals. I promise to get some live animals in my next state
There is a weekly series in the Columbia Spectator called 50 States of Literature. The very first article adduced To Kill A Mockingbird by Harper Lee as the quintessential Alabama book.
http://www.columbiaspectator.com/node/28723
It’s a fabulous movie and a captivating novel. I relished every word! I completely agree that the spirit of Alabama is captured. This is the first time in this series that I’ve visited a state for which they’ve designated a book. I’m excited to read all of the 50 States of Literature and you can expect me to write more about this series in the upcoming posts. I love these kinds of lists!
“Now Muscle Shoals has got the Swampers…”
Make it Stop!
Super Fun Night out in Super Fun San Francisco
G being Gobbled by the Bamboo Hut MonsterLast night Georgia & I stepped out on a tour of fabulousness in San Francisco. Stop #1 was to be the Fairmont’s Tonga Room. We marched up Powell working up a fearsome thirst and we were foiled by a “The Tonga Room is Currently Closed for Renovations” placard at the door. EGADS!!! Keeping panic at bay we regrouped and clomped down to Chinatown for refreshment at Li Po Lounge. They keep a scary Chinese Whisky behind the bar which I’ve not yet tried. I considered it but opted for a Tsing Tao instead wanting to remain upright. The alleys led us to Bamboo Hut on Broadway for our much desired tiki drinks then the surprise was just down the street…
Georgia said “maybe we’ll get a pizza or I made a reservation at a restaurant I’ve been wanting to try” The two options are at extreme opposites of the spectrum. The reservation was at Coi. Not being absolutely stupid we, of course, opted for Coi. Immediately after stepping in the door we were transported into fine dining nirvana. “Good Evening Georgia” said the host as we swooned in anticipation. The 11 course menu started with an oil that we were instructed to dab on out skin. Nice touch!!!! I understand you can purchase Coi perfume – is it this? I must find out and I definitely need some!
I didn’t take notes or pictures – I just enjoyed the ride. Everything was exquisite. The sommelier, Paul, took good care of us with two wines: something white, followed by something red. How’s that for not getting hung up on the details! The meld of textures and flavors were a sensory roller coaster that never disappointed. I can’t wait to return and will squirrel away pennies in my piggy bank hoping to make it soon. The lightness of the fare kept me going strong through all 11 courses plus the 3 amuses bouche. G needed a power nap under the table but, hey, that’s what happens when you get up a 4am. I wish I could detail every single dish but I’ll leave that to others.
The absolute corp de grace was when I was laying in bed this morning blearily eyeing the New York Times and what pops out at me!! Frank Bruni’s Top Ten “Significant” restaurants include Coi and I get to relive my experience while reading his article. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/03/05/dining/05count.html?_r=1&oref=slogin Bruni grumbles a bit about the service but I can’t think a thing to grumble about. I have to rate Coi as one of my very top dining experiences EVER!!!!!
“Maybe we’ll grab a pizza!” whatever…
Now I need to forage oxalis from my yard for my destined to be disappointing attempt to recreate Coi’s out of this world nettle and oxalis soup.
Two links G sent while I was writing this:
Opening Day by Daniel Patterson
http://chezpim.typepad.com/blogs/2007/05/openning_day_by.html
Coi Chowhound Report
http://www.chowhound.com/topics/495013
Saturday, March 1, 2008
#6 GEORGIA Top Ten
The top ten things I liked about this visit to Georgia:#10 Fun place names like Chattahoochee and Okeefanokee and Possum Snout
#9 Informative readings on hissing cockroaches and dinosaurs by Daniel
#8 I speak the language – well, almost.
#7 The weather, when it’s not freezing, raining, too hot to endure or plagued by tornadoes is beautiful!
#6 Fried onions at Folks
#5 The Bud Jones Taxidermy Museum in Tallapoosa
#4 Swinging and chasing ducks at Hunter Park
#3 Seeing Shelley & Joe’s fabulous new house
#2 The Winston Red Bulldogs
And the very best thing about visiting Georgia is that Daniel and Isabella and Shelley and Joe live there!
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